Left Dallas on December 22nd, traveling with B and S whose daughter and son-in-law live in Santiago.
B and S were scheduled to leave Midland mid morning and we would meet them for a 10 pm departure to Santiago. American Eagle, cancelled all flights departing Midland, which seems to happen more often than not . Then, American rebooked them to leave tomorrow for Dallas but not leaving for Santiago until the following day. Luckily, they were able to get on a Southwest flight to Dallas. We picked them up at Love Field and headed to DFW. Traffic was light, parking at The Parking Spot a breeze, security line nonexistent, and we were having a drink by 5. After a couple of rounds at the Irish Pub were moved to the Mexican restaurant where S ordered enchiladas and the rest of us snacked on salsa and chips with maybe another round of drinks. By now it is almost 9 and we head to the gate. Priority boarding started immediately and we were on the plane. This was our first Business Class experience on an overnight flight with American. Our plane was a new 788. Seats changing to a bed and a nice big pillow was way better than Delta but Delta wins the food contest. Steak was over cooked and tough as nails but we weren't hungry so no biggie. Eating dinner at 11 isn't our preference anyway. Flight was uneventful and we arrived in Santiago right on time. The line was long for immigration but painless, then off to baggage claim. Waited and waited, no bags. We headed to the official to report missing luggage and there were all 3 of our suitcases. Somebody had pulled them off just as they came out of the chute. Scary start but all ended well. We then had to place our luggage to be scanned again and turn in the custom forms. Now we are headed outside to a mass of people. Sebastian and his brother Roberto were waiting for us. The ride into the city took around an hour, going straight to Claire and Sebastian's apartment. We stayed at the apartment for a bit. When Claire put Lucas down for a nap, the rest of us walked to our hotel where we were able to check in early. We are staying at The Novotel which is 1 block from the apartment and was so convenient. Our room is on the 8th floor and across from our room is a terrace. Room is very nice, as well as the hotel lobby and grounds. Only complaint is the storage is very limited. Great for a short stay but crowded for a couple of suitcases and no where to unpack. After checking out our room, we headed to lunch at Tabelli, a very simple restaurant where we ate outside. After lunch, Sebastian drove us to the hotel with our luggage. We were ready for a bath and a bit of a rest. After bathing and resting, we headed back to the apartment where we had a drink. After Claire put Lucas down for the night for the sitter, we left for dinner. We chose a restaurant nearby that was located on a plaza with several different restaurant choices. We ate at Miraolas, which served seafood.. We all started with a Pisco Sour which is Chile's signature drink. It tasted very similar to a margarita. Greg ordered breaded Albone and I had a tomato based soup with several seafood items. S had octopus and Greg and I both had a bite. It was pretty good! After dinner, Claire and Sebastion headed home to relieve the babysitter and we went to the bar in our hotel. Ordered drinks and sat outside on the terrace across from our room. It was a beautiful night with a great view. Bed was calling after a long day.
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| Claire and Sebastian's Apartment Complex |
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| Hotel Novetel |
Thursday
We ignored the alarm clock and missed breakfast. Met S downstairs a little after 10 and went to the apartment to meet up with B, Claire and the baby. We walked to an upscale open air shopping mall that had just recently opened. Guys bought coffee at Starbucks and Lucas played on the indoor playground. We walked around and then headed to lunch. It was noon but restaurants don't serve lunch until 1 or later. Bautista's would serve us appetizers so we stopped there. B and I had a Bloody Mary. We ordered tapas, eggplant chops, mushroom quest, grilled zucchini and prosciutto. Nice relaxing light lunch. Claire took Lucas back for his nap and the four of us went to Jumbo's, the grocery store which is owned by the company where Sebastian works.
Sebastian's parents Enrique and Patty joined us as well. We sat on the patio and enjoyed shrimp and the best raw oysters that we had ever eaten. Dinner was snow crab, abalone, and ceviche.
We ended the evening with rum bread and an apple tart. Lucas opened his present from us and we headed back to the hotel.
Christmas Day
We made it to breakfast today! It consisted of scrambled eggs, bacon, lots of fruit, cereals, breads, etc. However, no coffee. They did make Greg a cup of coffee from the bar area so all is good.
We enjoyed the morning on the terrace. It was a cool, quiet morning.
We went down about noon to get a bite for lunch. Asked the front desk if the restaurant was open and they said yes but when we tried to be seated, they waiter shooed us out because they were cleaning. Went back to the room and had a call from the front desk apologizing, and said come back down and your meal will be 50% off. So, back down. We both ordered our Christmas tradition of Bloody Mary. It took forever and I think it was because no one working knew how to make a Bloody Mary. We got tomato juice with vodka and not much else. Oh well, the waiter tried. I ordered nachos and Greg ordered the Italian sandwich. My nachos consisted of a bowl of chips with three small bowls of guacamole, meat sauce and whipped cream cheese. It was fine but didn't look like any nachos that I had ever had before. We headed to the apartment around 2:00 where we opened gifts. We loaded up and all headed to Sebastian's parent's house for Christmas dinner. It is summer time here and Christmas dinner involves grilling outside. We had the best meat, starting with sausages then followed by skirt steak, loin roast, chicken and ribs. If that wasn't enough, two salads followed by a quince and berry dessert.
Saturday
S and B joined us for breakfast in our hotel. Sebastian walked over with them and talked to the front desk about a tour to Concha Y Toro winery which is Chile's most well known winery. We decided on the 2:00 tour. We then set out for the organic market so Claire could buy some vegetables for her new juicer.
We then headed back to the hotel to catch our tour. The driver was about 10 minutes late and drove us to a parking lot where we transferred to a large bus for the winery. The bus was very comfortable with only a handful of people on the bus. The drive to the winery was about 45 minutes and the guide provided information in both English and Spanish.
When we arrived at Concha Y Toro we went to the restaurant first because the tour in English didn't start for another hour. At the restaurant we had a cheese plate and mini empanadas with wine, of course!!
The tour itself lasted about one hour with three tastings: Sauvignon Blanc, Carminera, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
After the tour we went to the gift shop where Greg bought a couple of bottles of wine and I bought a magnet. We also were given the wine glasses used in the tastings. We returned back to the hotel around 6:30. After a quick refresh, we headed for Stranberg, a German restaurant where we spent the evening. The guys enjoyed the beer and we all enjoyed the German food. Busy, fun day!
Sunday
Day started with a wine tour and brunch at the House Casa de Vino in the Casablanca valley which was about 45 min drive toward the sea. The hills reminded me of the terrain around Hondo, NM as we headed into the valley. We had a private tour with three tastings. The tour started with a Reisling which was a great way to start, in my opinion.
The guide provided a lot of information and then we sat on the patio for brunch. It was another beautiful day and the winery was very picturesque. We had a leisurely lunch and Lucas played on the playground.
After making some purchases in gift shop, we headed back to Santiago. Later in the day, Sebastion drove us to the top of San Cristobal Hill which is the second tallest hill in Santiago. On its summit is a sanctuary dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, with a 22 meter statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary, an amphitheater and a chapel. At the base of the statue is a small chapel in which Pope John Paul II prayed and blessed the city of Santiago on April 1, 1987. The statue is lit up at night by lights placed on its sides, allowing it to be seen from all over Santiago both day and night.
Dinner tonight was pizza at Tio Tomate which is located in the same square where we ate the first night. The pizza was very good. We were all tired and called it an early evening.
Monday
We visited the Military Academy (La Escuela Militar) today. It is the largest academy in South America and only West Point and the Academy in Britain are larger. Sebastian's uncle who is a Colonel has just been appointed the director. He was at Sebastian's parents home on Christmas Day and invited us for a tour. The Academy is over 200 years old and is not open to the public. The history of Escuela Militar is intertwined with that of Chile. It was Chile's Governor Bernardo O'Higgins who on 16th of March 1817 signed a decree to build "a place where officials can be formed and instructed to fill the spaces in the regiments and raise a new army ". Two officials from the Napolean wars were brought in to organize the theoretic/practical teachings of the academy according to French methods. Before World War II, the Academy changed from the French influence to a more German influence. Following WW II, the academy definitely has an American influence. There are 4 cadets from West Point attending as foreign exchange students. The combat and everyday uniforms were very similar to the uniforms worn by our servicemen. A very nice lieutenant, Pablo, gave us a detailed tour including a trip to the stables.
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| Mess Hall |
After the tour we went to the Colonel's home where his wife Maria opened their lovely home to us. We sat outside and enjoyed Pisco Sours. We decided that these were the best Pisco Sours served during our Chilean visit. What a wonderful morning.
After returning to the apartment the four of us sat off on foot for a late lunch. We went to Dane's where we ate on the rooftop. Nice lunch with 4 non Spanish speaking people managing to order lunch from a non English speaking waiter. Add that to the air conditioner that exploded, it was an interesting lunch. After eating, S headed back to the apartment and Greg, B, and I walked along Alfonso De Cordova which is Santiago's version of Rodeo Drive. You have to ring a bell to enter a store along this road. Needless, to say more looking than buying.
Greg went with S and Sebastion to get the keys for one of the condos and then they went to the grocery store (Jumbo, of course) to buy for upcoming beach stay. I spent some quiet time reading at the hotel. After Greg returned we had a drink on the terrace and finished packing for our beach trip.
Tuesday
Checked out of the hotel. We had prepaid for two more days and they refunded us the money. We certainly was not expecting this and it was very appreciated. We loaded our luggage, filled the car with gas and unloaded the suitcases at the apartment that we were not going to the beach. Sebastian's parents arrived and the guys loaded the two cars and we were off to the beach. The drive was slightly more than two hours. We have two condos at the San Alfonso del Mar Resort rented for 3 nights. The condos are in different buildings but only about 5 minutes apart. We are staying with B and S and Claire, Sebastian, and Lucas are staying with Sebastian's parents. After settling into the condos we met at the restaurant and had a long leisurely lunch.
Following lunch we drove to town to buy towels and more food. We walked around the quaint seaside village. After returning to the condo we enjoyed a couple of drinks on the balcony and then we headed to the other condo for late snacks, beer, wine and good conversation.
Wednesday through Friday at San Alfonso del Mar
We spent most of the mornings on the patio or playing with Lucas on the playground. The sun would usually start peaking out around 11 am. We would claim a palapa and loungers in the shade and go back and forth as we ate lunch, grab drinks, took breaks from the sun, etc. Dinner was at the other condo. On Wednesday we had barbecue, sirloin, ribs, and sausage. New Year's Eve was clams and fish. Enrique and Sebastian are excellent on the grill. New Year's Eve was celebrated in style. Everyone was grilling on their patios. The smell was wonderful. We could see the fireworks from the town as well as small fireworks going off around us. The restaurant had the building lit in many colors with spotlights and laser beams shining in the sky. Quite a party to ring in 2016.
Friday
We had to be out of our condo by noon but the other condo could leave at their leisure so we decided to head back to Santiago after Lucas' nap. After loading up our luggage we headed to the restaurant at the other end of the beach. However, it didn't open until 3:00 pm. Based on the recommendation from the concierge in the condo building, we walked a short way toward town and had lunch at Bresler Restaurant Los Patitos It was very popular and there was a long line waiting to get in when we left. Lunch started with Pisco sours and shrimp cocktail which was served with boiled potatoes. Everyone had filet four style (meat, French fries, grilled onions and topped with a fried egg) except me and I had ceviche. All very good. After lunch, we loaded up and headed back to Santiago. So glad we were going away from the sea because it was bumper to bumper headed toward the ocean. We are staying this time at the Hyatt Place which is across the street from The Novotel. It took a long time to check in and even at 6:00 our room was not ready. We booked a suite and OMG it's huge. Separate sitting room, two full bathrooms, and a bar area. All restaurants were closed since it was New Year's Day so we ate in the hotel. Food was good and we made it an early evening.
Saturday
Breakfast upstairs was not good. Honest to goodness, eggs and bacon were raw. We ate fruit, pastries, and cereal then headed to the apartment. First stop today was the artisan market and farmer's market. The artisan market had very unique items. We bought t-shirts, piggy banks for the kids and a copper necklace with earrings.
The farmer's market had beautiful looking fruit. The vegetables were huge!
After Lucas' nap we went to a large park with a restaurant known for its Pesco sours. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closing. Lucas played for awhile and we enjoyed the Saturday afternoon atmosphere in the park.
Dinner tonight was on the terrace of the hotel Nio on the famed Alfonso de Cordova street. Great atmosphere and views. We had pizza and salad along with great drinks. Good evening.
Sunday
Lazy morning. B went to church for Claire and then we met at the apartment. Sebastion, S, Greg and I went to the mall where Sebastion offices. We bought wine, Pisco Sour, and a suitcase to take our purchases home. Then we took the key back to the condo owner and back to the mall for lunch. We ate at Tata, a Peruvian Restaurant on the terrace of the mall. The food was really good. We went back to the hotel and B and S stayed at the apartment. Greg and I walked back to the grocery store as we decided we wanted to take another Pisco Sour home. We used the time to pack our suitcases. We couldn't find a restaurant open besides the pizza place and since we had eaten pizza last night we ate in the hotel. Again, service was extremely poor. We finally ordered but the food came quickly and was good.
Monday
Our last day in Santiago started by a visit to the tallest building in Santiago. The tower is part of a mall which is owned by the company that Sebastian's employer. The views were fantastic. After our tour at the top, we stopped on the 4th floor for coffee (or a coke for me).
We had reservations for the restaurant in the park known for its Picso Sours (Mestizo) for 1 pm. Sebastian stayed with Lucas while he napped and Claire went with us to the restaurant. We had a great last meal in Santiago. I had octopus and shrimp. The octopus was really good.
We headed for the airport around 5:00 pm and arrived at the terminal at 6:00. What a mad house with little signage. The line to check in luggage and get boarding passes was ridiculous, no organization and a mass of people. We did finally locate the priority line and thank goodness we did. The priority line was short and we were on our way to immigration. Line was fairly long here but went quickly. After immigration was the security line. It too moved quickly. We had access to the VIP lounge which was nice. We left the lounge a little before 9:00 and couldn't locate B and S. Just before we boarded the plane, they finally arrived at the gate. It had taken them 3 hours to go through check in, immigration and security. What a mess. Plane flight was uneventful even though there had been a plane change to an older plane. Customs at DFW was easy but it took forever for Parking Spot to pick us up. We had to call twice and it was COLD! Welcome back to winter.
More pictures.
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| Andes |
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| Chilean Flag |
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| Sunset from the Novotel terrace |
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| Jacaranda tree |
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| Escalators in the mall with the tallest building. |
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